pattern junkie

Have You Seen This Sun Hat?

It's summer, and my thoughts have turned to sun hats. 

Actually, let me clarify that.  What I really mean is that I've become obsessed with searching out one very specific hat pattern.  One that's been marked in my etsy favorites for quite a while:

I don't think I need to explain the siren-like call of the hat.  I mean, what's not to love?  The baggy top!  The oversize pleated brim! It's REVERSIBLE!  Clearly I need to make one or twelve RIGHT NOW in the brightest colors imaginable.  I live on one of the streets doomed to be clogged due to this weekend's "Carmageddon" in Los Angeles, so if I'm going to be trapped in my house for the weekend I might as well hunker down and make obnoxious sun hats while drinking mojitos. 

But...the item listed as "Lady's Vogue Reversible Sun Hat PDF Pattern" is on Etsy no more.  The seller no longer exists, so the ghost of the item can't even be viewed.  Only this scrap of information remains.  I scoured the Vintage Sewing Pattern Wiki and have yet to uncover it, although after stumbling across Vogue 6805 I feared to explore summer hat territory further:

Is it a bandana?  A veil?  A veindana?  Are those fake flowers on view 3 -- and could it be a wedding version?  I'm very, very confused.

While I ponder the conundrum of Vogue 6805, please report any sightings of the Vogue Reversible Lady's Sun Hat to PatternJunkie HQ.  Do not approach the hat or make eye contact with it, as it may be armed and dangerous!

The Dreaded One Note Bird Strikes Again

Remember McCall's 3435 and The Dreaded One-Note Bird? 

Well, it now has a rival in the "Inexplicable Illustration Detail I Just Can't Get Past" Department.  Behold Butterick 5246:

Is that a light switch on the wall?  If so, what made the illustrator go "I know just what this drawing needs to sell this dress -- a light switch!"  Yes, because I always plan my outfits around the momentous occasion of turning on the lights.

But...is the switch in the shape of of a triangle?!  Why?  Is Green in her smock dress actually flipping The Switch That Will Destroy The World?  Is Stripes hiding the key to unlock the missile codes in her little red purselet?  If so, they seem pretty casual about the whole thing.  They're not super-villains or heroines -- just two laidback gals in smock dresses who stumbled into the war room one afternoon.

I have to say, if this is the depiction of The End of The World, I could use a bit more drama.

Tweet.  Tweet.

Great Slanting Tucks!

Sewing pattern envelopes are generally mullets in reverse: party in the front, business in the back.  Oh, those illustrations!  Chock full of eye candy calling out to you: "Buy me.  Sew me.  With me your life will be joyous, glamourous, carefree."  But flip them over and it's time for Serious Business: bust measurements, yardage specifications and descriptions that are little more than a checklist.  "Raglan sleeves, center back zipper, waist tucks.  Choice of collar."

There are exceptions, however.  Take the Butterick pattern descriptions of the 1950s: they're things of fanciful beauty, little bonbons of prose that make my heart go pitter pat.  I first became aware of them when I bought this pattern, Butterick 7348: 

How great is this description?  "Gentle mannered dress has a fitted bodice with faced sleeves, a stand-up collar and a bouffant skirt that's spiced with two great slanting tucks on either side."  I've been trying to work "great slanting tucks" into my vocabulary ever since -- ie, "Great slanting tucks, Batman!  The Joker is at it again!"

Then, of course, there's Butterick 7162 -- the Blouse of Many Moods.  But it doesn't stop there!  Search for "Butterick" and "1950s" on the Vintage Pattern Wiki and a whole bevy of delights await.  Want more examples?  I'm happy to oblige.

Butterick 6153 has a bit of an attitude problem.  This "daytimer" dress "moves easily in city or suburbs."  What about the country?  6153 strikes me as a bit of a snob.

Butterick 6946, meanwhile, declares itself a "seven day wonder - the dress to reach for - feel just right on any day."  Not to be outdone, Butterick 8939 ("a "bevy of important jackets") promises to "cover all your needs."  I'm assuming they mean all your jacket needs -- I can't imagine it paying rent or anything -- but perhaps "needs" was a synonym of "breasts" back then.

Finally, here's Butterick 6903.  The description declares it to be "exciting news in jacket-dresses - versatility plus smart fashion" -- but I think the truly exciting news comes later in the description, when we learn that the "skirt takes a fling with oversized pockets."  The skirt and the pockets are having a fling?  How did they meet?  Will these (three) crazy kids make it work?  What happens to the dress if the skirt and pockets break up? 

Great slanting tucks, that'd be a problem!

Zigging on the Zagged Line, Part Two

Remember McCall's 3057, the awesome 70s embroidery pattern for giant guitars and chains?  McCall's issued a SECOND "Zigging on the Zagged Line" pattern in 1971, and it's got me so excited that I'm this close to putting up "Zigging on the Zagged Line" on a Café Press t-shirt.  McCall's 3058 is just as breathtaking and brilliant as its giant-eyed sibling:

 

Wowza!  Check out the GIANT TIE you could embroider on your frock!  The giant heart medallion!  The full body spiderweb and the anaconda!  Oh, but there's more!  Check out the back (photo courtesy Mary & Bill's Vintage and Newer Sewing Patterns on etsy):

My favorite is the flyswatter with the fly embroidered on it.  Very meta, I suppose.  Although a fabric flyswatter seems like the nastiest thing in the world -- just contemplating cleaning it gives me the heebie jeebies.

Still, I can't keep my eyes off those dresses and tunics emblazoned with giant things.  I want...i want Mondo from Project Runway to take this idea and run with it.  (Speaking of PR, how awesomely amazing was last week's episode with the downfall of Team Luxe and Gretchen?)  II'd love to see the judges contemplate a giant embroidered bird medallion!

Again With The Chairs

What is it with pattern illustrators and chairs?!

Granted, McCall's 3493 isn't as maddening as McCall's 3435, the pattern illustration that nearly drove me out of my mind.  The chair actually is part of the main illustration, instead of being thrown in as an odd focal point.  And it's pretty.

Still...why is Blue staring at it with such admiration?  And look at how Brown has her foot perched precariously on the chair.  As distracted as she is, she's going to trip and fall as soon as she tries to move.  Is that what Blue is secretly hoping for?  Or does her fascinated gaze have less to do with the chair and much more to do with the proximity of her gloved hand to Brown's bare one?

McCall's 3435 and the Dreaded One Note Bird

When Mr. Pattern Junkie and I first moved in together, we rented a nice little house (emphasis on "little") in the hills near the Hollywood Reservoir.  The house, besides listing so badly to one side that visitors would be momentarily seasick when they entered, had one major flaw: the Dreaded One Note Bird.

The Dreaded One Note Bird had a "song" consisting of one monotone note: tweet.  Every time the same length, the same note, usually at very regular intervals.  All day, every day.  Now, you could go days without noticing the Dreaded One Note Bird.  But then, suddenly, it would permeate your consciousness: tweet.

At that moment, you knew you were doomed.  Because then, the only thing you could notice for the rest of the day was the incessant tweet of the Dreaded One Note Bird.

What, you may ask, does any of this have to do with McCall's 3435, what with its pretty Peter Pan collar, flared skirt and knife pleats?  Really, it's just a darling dress:

Except for that chair.

The more I look at this illustration, the less I can tear my eyes away from the chair.  Why is it there?  Why?  What mad impulse made the illustrator think, "Hmm, this drawing needs a little something more...a little something to, oh, draw the eye away from the dresses...Should I put a plant?  A tiki stand?  A garden umbrella?  No, a chair would be perfection!"

Really, I try to focus on the pretty puffed sleeves of the yellow version or the knife pleats and pearls -- but DEAR GOD WHY IS THERE A CHAIR IN THE BACKGROUND?!  And why, if you must put a chair there, why oh why dash off the plainest most boring chair ever seen?  Put some effort into a wingback, please, or maybe entertain me with a chaise lounge or -- WHY THE CHAIR?  Is there some symbolism I'm missing?  Some hidden message?!  Is this a statement, or are you just messing with my mind?

Tweet.  Tweet.

Big Collar Love

Wow.  My heart's all a-flutter this morning, and it's not because the coffee's a little stronger than usual.

Look at what I just found on the Vintage Pattern Wiki!  Meet Gloire de Paris 10.21:

It's French!  It's stylish!  It's a wiggle dress!  And it's got one of the HUGEST collars I've ever seen!  The tips go PAST her shoulders!  It looks like giant bat wings...like a shawl shrunken down and gone wrong...like it could pose a serious threat to her health if the wind whipped it the wrong way...

I love it so.

I've written before about my inexplicable love for big collars but this one...this one...

...this one is my destiny.  Gloire de Paris 10.21, where are you in a B34?

Milestones in Junkiedom

Wow!  Somehow in my despair over my ruined dress, I didn't realize that my last post was a bit of a milestone -- yep, post 100!  Thanks, dear readers, for joining me in this journey into pattern madness.  I'm going to attach pom pom trim to my socks and go do some interpretive dance in celebration!

 

(Click on the photo to be taken to the listing over at Ruby Lane for this astounding bit of grooviness.)

Or perhaps I'll just whip up some spats for my go-go boots courtesy Simplicity 9553?

Sadly, groovy 60s dance won't be on my agenda this week -- I'm facing 3 big work deadlines and my posting here will probably range from spotty to nil.  While I put my vintage pattern obsession on hold, here are the links I'll be doing my best to avoid -- if you've got some time to kill, have fun with them!

• Steph at 3 Hours Past the Edge of the World has started a series on how to tackle a big sewing project.  The first article, on conceptualizing and sourcing, is very helpful -- I'm looking forward to what else she has to say!  
• There's a Vintage Pattern Contest going on at Pattern Review.  Get those sewing machines revving -- it ends April 30th!
• Want encouragement or simply company when you wear the lovely garments you've made?  Join Me-Made May at So Zo.
• Free pattern download: the eight-gore Bossa Nova skirt from Hot Patterns at Fabric.com.
• Uh oh...serious time suck alert!  Clothes on Film is, well, a website devoted to discussing clothes on film.  Today's front page features, among other things, an article about a Grace Kelly exhibition at the V&A, an interview with the costume designer for THE HANGOVER, and a discussion of Gordon Gekko's two iconic shirts from WALL STREET.  Digging just a little deeper I found articles on individual pieces of clothing from MAD MEN and Mia Farrow's gorgeous red lounging pajamas from ROSEMARY'S BABY (one of my favorite films).  I die.  GLEE fans, I didn't see an in-depth analysis of Emma Pillsbury, but I'm sure it can't be far off!

On Blogging, Brain Saturation and the Bad Lieutenant

I started this blog because I love vintage sewing patterns.  Without a doubt, though, blogging about vintage patterns has caused me to think about them a whole lot more.  I spend more time browsing the Vintage Pattern Wiki looking for things to post, reading other sewing blogs, etc. -- not that I'm complaining.  Let's just say that in the pie chart representing my brain, the slice representing "vintage sewing patterns" has grown much, much bigger. 

The point of this prologue?  Mr. Pattern Junkie and I recently watched Bad Lieutenant: Port of Call New Orleans.  Last night I had a dream in which I was Nicolas Cage's character, and two people were bribing/tempting me by opening up someone else's mail.  (I know!  So BAD!  That should tell you just how daring I am in real life.)

Inside the envelope?  Two vintage dress patterns and some pot.   I really debated what to do.  Stealing's wrong, but...

I took the patterns and left the marijuana for its intended recipient.  No reason to ruin their fun.

Do you think I have a problem?

Treasure Hunting, Part Two

Part two of sharing the results of my recent etsy and eBay spree!  As before, I'll share the seller's names and link to the Vintage Wiki listing, if there is one.

Part of my little shopping fest was inspired by the Mini-Wardrobe Contest over at Pattern Review.  (The aim is to make 4 garments that combine to make at least 4 outfits.)  Even though I'm the slowest seamstress in the world, I came up with the fun idea of making the ultimate swappable wardrobe.  A jumper that could be worn as a dress, detachable collars to change the look, a reversible skirt, etc.  Considering the contest ends on April 16th (and I haven't even cut out anything!) I'll have to give up my dreams of glory -- but it did result in some fun pattern purchases.  Simplicity 1390 was only 99 cents from eBay seller mamajean2010:

All those collars and cuffs!  I love the idea of just slipping them on your dress to give it a new look.  I'd definitely take a pass on the baby hats, though.

I picked up Simplicity 1586 in a lot of 10 blouse patterns (for only $7!) because I was intrigued by the "Change 1," "Change 2," etc on the illustration.  Did this blouse offer change and go capability?  Today a I want the ribbon collar, tomorrow I'll wear it plain?  Sadly, no -- they're just different views -- thought cute ones!  From eBay seller kicker060.

McCall's 5801 was also part of my plan for world domination through ultimate wardrobe swappability.  This cute jacket is reversible!

I bought it from etsy seller elyse72, and while I was there this 1971 wonder jumped into my cart.  How cute is Simplicity 9254?  I love the high neck, the nipped-in waist and, of course, the belt:

Here's the other pattern I bought from Starlet on etsy.  I saw Simplicity 8648 a while ago and was thrilled to finally find it in my size.  I love the collar and the inverted pleat -- it seems like such a comfortable, wearable dress:

Finally...drum roll, please...there's the pattern that could not be resisted.  The pattern that had to be bought simply because it was there.  I present to you Authentic Patterns 252, which came to me via eBay seller purplegardencat.

You read that right!  It's FOR KNITS ONLY!  And what you can't tell from the illustration is that it's actually a BODYSUIT!

Yes, indeed.  This is a pattern for a Western-style bodysuit.  With turtleneck collar or pointed collar or lacing or curlicue details or...isn't each variation just more fantastic than the last?!  Oh, I just have to share the pattern back with you:

How astounding is that?!  I knew it would haunt me if I didn't get it.  I mean, some things you only see once in your lifetime. 

You know what's truly scary?  If I turned my back on all the pretty dress patterns to make this atrocity?  I'd probably end up wearing it to death.