pattern junkie

When The Pajama Problem is Just Too Much

Welcome to Men's Week, Day 3!

Yesterday I presented the Pajama Problem faced by illustrators of the past: what to do when a men's nightwear pattern had two views?  How to explain two men in PJs together?  Usually an array of props -- golf clubs, memos, etc -- presented the event as an odd nighttime business meeting.

But sometimes, the Pajama Problem was just too much.  Here in Simplicity 2289 (circa 1930s), I can feel the illustrator's terror rising right off the page.  "No!  No!  Just because it's two men in pajamas doesn't mean they have to look (whispered voice) gay."  And yet in trying so hard NOT to do that, the artist came up with something that seemed to betray his or her worst fears.  Stripes has shoulders so wide he makes Tan look femme by comparison, and Tan clutches the clock as if he's washing dishes.  In fact, Tan's lips are almost red:

 

The illustrator for Simplicity 1617 (late 1930s), on the other hand, seems to have suffered a nervous breakdown at the prospect of showing (gasp!) two men in pajamas together.  Take a look:

 

It's as if his or her neurons just misfired all at once.  "Two men in pajamas -- does not compute!  Too bizarre to contemplate!"  Green Trim with his villainous mustache clutches a book (with that freakishly long finger!) in one hand, but what's he hiding behind his back?  And what's happened to poor Stripes?  Dear God, his hands are different colors and he's MISSING AN EYE!  But he's better off than Back View, who is not only missing a right forearm but his entire head.  This isn't a pattern illustration, nor is it simply two men in pajamas -- it's a scene from a horror movie!

You may think there's an obvious solution to the Pajama Problem: throw a woman or two into the mix.  Nope, that presents its own problems.  Two men, one woman?  Two men, two women?  Why are all of them in PJs together?  As far as I can tell, pattern illustrators didn't try this one out until the advent of the sexual revolution, with some particularly humorous results.

Here's McCall's 2218 from 1969.  Three Hefner-esque guys and one woman -- and they actually wrote "Quickie" on the pattern?

 

Even better: Butterick 4158 from the early 1970s.  Looks like Mustache lost out tonight -- and don't tell me the illustrator didn't know there was a suggestion of that!

Do you have any examples of The Pajama Problem?  Send 'em to me, I'd love to post them!

Two Men in Robes = Panic!

Day Two of Men's Week brings us to...The Pajama Problem.

Look through vintage pajama and robe patterns for men and one thing becomes clear: pattern illustrators of the past got very nervous when they had to illustrate more than one view of a male nightwear pattern.  Because that meant...that meant...

...that meant they'd be showing two or more men in nightclothes TOGETHER.  And that raised the question...WHY were these men in pajamas together?  Hmmm?  Hmmm?!

The most common solution to The Pajama Problem?  Give the men objects to show they were DOING something.  Because if they were doing something, they couldn't, you know, be doing something else...

In Simplicity 5039, it's quite simple.  Shorts is golfing (golfing?!) while Nightshirt and Blue discuss Important Business:

 

The "sheaf of papers in hand" in Blue's hand is a favorite solution.  Men, you see, just can't stop Meeting About Memos, even if it's time for beddy bye.

Advance 5878:

 

McCall's 4186:

 
Even in the 70s, that sheaf of papers came in handy.  In Simplicity 7080, Yellow may be getting a little friendly with Plaid, who just stepped out of the shower, but Red has a TPS Report that needs discussing, stat!

Another favorite remedy (as shown in McCall's 4816 above), was to show the robe worn over a tie, pants and dress shoes.  Here's another example, Simplicity 4349:

 
And yet another, Vogue 8753.  Little Mr. No Pants in the back there may be going to bed, but Red and Gray are wheeling, dealing and trading stocks even though the market is closed:

Truth be told, I found so many examples of robes over ties that I have to ask my readers who've studied fashion and costume history: was there a time when men came home and doffed their suit jackets for robes?

Tomorrow: When the Pajama Problem is just too much...

Men of Patternland

Hey!  It's MEN'S WEEK here at Pattern Junkie!

Why?  Well, Peter over at Male Pattern Boldness had a fantastic post last week on the paucity of male sewers, and Gertie followed it up with a wonderful post of her own yesterday.  Both got me thinking  (er, "losing hours to the Vintage Pattern Wiki"), and there's just too much male pattern goodness not to share.

I want to kick things off with a little historical survey of Men of Patternland.  Personally, I think men's patterns used to offer more interesting design variations than they do now.   One thing I can say with confidence?  Men in decades past could look at a pattern envelope and say to themselves, "Hey, that's a guy I'd like to be."  Now?  That's not so true. 

Take the 1930s.  What do you see when you look at Simplicity 1793?  I see sophisticated.  Literate.  A man who knows how to mix a martini:

The 1940s.  How much cooler can you get than film noir and Bogie?!

The 1950s: men smoked cigarettes and talked about space age things.  (Check out the shirt, by the way -- I love the design!)

In the 1960s, men were people with Things!  To!  Do!

 

The 1970s.  A touch of mod remains, and funk creeps in.  Sure, Yellow there looks like he might corner you at a party and talk non-stop about his hi-fi system, but Blue and Brown were hunks in their time even with the double knit polyester!

Now let's jump over to McCall's and see what the men of today have to look forward to in the pages of the pattern catalog.  What reflections of themselves do they see?

I rest my case.

P.S.  I have a copy of the 70s pattern, Simplicity 9992, size 38-40, for anyone who wants it.  The problem?  No instruction sheet!  Email me if you want it -- first come, first served.  (My email is at the top left-hand corner of the page.)  Just promise to send photos of the completed project!

UPDATE: the pattern has found its new home!

Sock Full of Gifts

Ah, the wonders of the Vintage Pattern Wiki -- that's where I found these "Sock-Full-of-Gifts" patterns that Simplicity put out in the mid-50s.  The Sock-Full-o Gifts is the ultimate in convenience (or in overwhelming yourself with too many sewing projects for the holiday season): stocking patterns complete with stuffers!  Sure, it's too late to get them done for this year...but there's always next year....

First, for the manly man in your life, there's Simplicity 1801:

Not just a stocking pattern, but also a pattern for slippers, scarf, vest, handkerchief, ties and more.  What really sets the Sock-Full-of-Gifts apart in my book, however, is the completely amazing stocking itself.  Check out the actual COLLAR on the stocking -- because even on Christmas, Dad doesn't get to lounge around.  And the cigarette applique?  Let's just say I never thought I'd have reason to type the words "cigarette" and "applique" right next to each other, and it gives me a strange pleasure to do so.

But the little girl in your life should have a Sock Full of Gifts too -- and she does, courtesy of Simplicity 1803:

 

Aww!  Cute stocking, adorable "pussy cat" apron, sweet little collar, cap and bag --

-- dear Lord, WHAT IS THAT GHOULISH MESS THEY CALL THE CUDDLY DOLL?!

The Go Everywhere Man

Behold the GO EVERYWHERE man -- 1970s dude extraordinaire.  It makes me happy to realize that in the 1970s Simplicity felt that even an international criminal/super spy might need a pattern for an efficient, flexible wardrobe that allows him to blend in anywhere.  I bring you Simplicity 7943:

70s BUSINESS DUDE is our hero's main disguise, as signaled by the large pattern illustration.  The 'stache is tamed.  He's walking calmly.  But note how his left hand creeps toward his pocket...our first clue that he might be more than he seems.  He's ready to grab a weapon (I'm betting a ninja star) in an instant if the situation warrants.

CASUAL DUDE (bottom row, center) is business dude's natural counterpart.  Striped polo shirt, hands in pockets, one leg crossed.  The look screams casual, but check out those eyes.  He knows every exit in any room he's in.  He's alert to any sign that he's gotta go...he'll whip out one of his three passports and don his next outfit, which is...

BERMUDA BUSINESS DUDE (top row, left).  Swap out the pants for plaid shorts and don some sunglasses and long socks, and our international superspy is ready to attend to business in the tropics.  A few dozen bank accounts in the Caicos are required, after all, when your other persona is...

COLOMBIAN DRUG DEALER DUDE (top row, center).  Witness the straw fedora and briefcase.  I need say no more.

JAMES BOND SEDUCER DUDE (top row, right) is an easy persona to adopt with the right stylistic changes.  Add a turtleneck.  Put a wave in that hair and a smoldering look in your eyes.  The Continental has nothing on you now. Finally, we have...

GOLFING DUDE (bottom row, right).  Sadly, Simplicity really dropped the ball on this one -- any astute observer would see right through our hero's disguise.  Who wears a thick ski sweater with Bermuda shorts to golf?  (Only someone with bars of gold bullion or ammunition rounds strapped to their chest, that's who.) And either our guy has cankles, or he's chosen to hide his bankroll in his socks.

War of the Super Shirts

1970s culture wars, pattern style.

Super Shirts (Butterick 4337) vs. Embroidery Design (Simplicity 6380):


 

Organic gardening vs. mind altering experiences

Mother Jones vs. Rolling Stone

The Carpenters' "We've Only Just Begun" vs. The Eagles' "Life in the Fast Lane"

Sorry, Super Shirts.  Ms. Embroidery Design is going to kick both your asses.

Truth in Pattern Illustration

This may be my favorite pattern illustration ever.  It's definitely in the top ten.  Check it out:

Yes, he's wearing nothing but flip flops, a robe, a 70s porn mustache and tinted sunglasses.  And yes, the can in his hand reads "DRAFT."  (You can argue that it's just draft root beer, but you know you're just fooling yourself.)

It's even better in context.  Here's the full pattern illustration/photo (click on it to see it in full):

View A is so worldly and sophisticated, with his hi fi, record collection and book!  (Sure, he's holding the book like he's not quite sure what to do with it, but it's there.)  Meanwhile View B guy is slouching on an imaginary couch, drinking beer and either watching football or overseeing some serious hot tub frolicking.  He's probably a lot of fun to hang out with, but I bet he's always short on his share of the rent.

Who's "Cyndi", and who thought this pattern was perfect for her?  My guess is that Cyndi's passive aggressive older sister Lynnette bought this pattern and scrawled Cyndi's name on it.  Mr. View B reminded her of Cyndi's layabout husband Mike.  And while I bet Cyndi was initially excited to make a robe, I'm not surprised that she only got as far as cutting out 2 pieces.  Even in a classy plaid, Mike would always choose beer over books.