pattern junkie

Sugar Swings

I look at the envelope for Simplicity 8721 and my first thought is, "No one should have given these childen sweetened cola."  Is it just me, or do they seem a little hyper?

Then I saw this awesome vintage ad promoting the importance of sugar to a child's diet.  (It originally appeared in Time Magazine in 1966; I spotted it here.)  Who knew sugar was promoted as part of a healthy diet?  So Blue to the left there isn't spazzing out -- she's doing the Watusi!

As for the phrase "like a turtle needs a seatbelt"?  I need to find a way to work that into my everyday language immediately.  "Honey, I need this argument like a turtle needs a seatbelt."  "Officer, I need this ticket like a turtle needs a seatbelt."  Handy for so many situations!

Burlesque Pointers, Part Two: Highlight Your Assets

I'd love to see Cathy at Male Pattern Boldness rock the 1969 wonder that is Simplicity 8544:

Highlighting the bodice with daisies, rhinestones or ribbon outlines like that?  I'd be too self-conscious to do it, but I'd love to see someone else try.  (And I DO adore that matching scarf!)

Burlesque Pointers, Part One

 

Really?  The jacket comes off before the gloves?

Pleat Madness

Take a peek at the note written on the pattern envelope for Vogue 7069 (one darn pretty dress!):

Ten yards of 45 inch fabric?  Could that really be the required yardage?!

I found a listing for it over at Lanetz Living (it's sold out) that shows the back view -- yup, depending on the size, fabric width and view, it calls for anywhere from 6 to 12 yards of fabric.  Can you imagine how long it would take to do all of those pleats?!

I bet the resulting dress would be a blast to wear, though -- so fun and twirly!  Alas, it would also be fraught with danger -- the slightest breeze or smallest subway grate would send it flying over your head, don't you think?  Your underwear would really have to be as spectacular as the dress itself.

Jumping in the Deep End with Lady Gaga

When it comes to learning and doing things, I'm a methodical researcher.  I study.  Start with the basics.  Read the instruction manuals.  And while there are pros with this approach, I envy people who have the guts to just jump in the deep end and see if they can swim.

Reader Rachel is one of these people.

She's a beginning sewer.  And she wants to replicate this Lady Gaga costume because it seems like it would be fun:

So, any advice for Rachel?  Obviously there's some serious structuring in that outfit at the shoulders and hips -- wire or super-strong interfacing.  Leave suggestions for her here or follow her new adventures in sewing at her blog, Pop Culture Sewing Projects!

A Sewing Machine Is A Girl's Best Friend

Or so says the narrator in this British newreel from 1955.  Be sure to listen all the way to the end -- one of his last comments will make you want to slap him silly!

(Clicking the picture will take you to the clip -- unfortunately I couldn't find a way to embed the video  Be forewarned -- the site, British Pathé, an archive of over 3500 newsreels -- is addictively fun and capable of sucking up many hours!)

SEWING MACHINE

"Skill had played little part in the operation?!"  We're talking matching stripes on diagonal seams!  You try it yourself before declaring it so easy, buster!

Housedress My Ass

While browsing the vintage pattern wiki recently, I stumbled upon Simplicity 2907 and nearly fell over laughing:

Look at Stripes back there!  Holding a glass of water and...is that a pill case?!  Is she about to pop a mother's little helper?  (I'm talking a real one, as opposed to a floating mini-helper.)  It's hard to tell in the scan -- here's a closer look:

Ack!  Still impossible to be sure!  At this point I was squinting at the screen (and becoming strangely fascinated with her scorpion-style bangs), so I fired off an email to Sandra at Selvedge Shop, who has the pattern in stock.  Sadly, she informed me that Stripes is holding a DISH.

Sigh.  Still, as Sandra suggested, that dish could have a pill on it.  Stripes could be bringing an aspirin to hubby.  Or this whole scene could be a coffee klatch with a kick.  Look at it.  Dots there certainly isn't cleaning.  Eyes closed, arms outstretched -- she's either singing or having a transcendental experience.  Flowers in the background is hiding something in her pockets.  No, housework is not on the agenda in this scene.

Even though Simplicity slapped a "housedress or duster" label on this pattern, I wonder if it was really meant to be that.  Look at that design -- how cute is that?  Not that there aren't cute housedresses, but this looks a tad like party wear with its big structured skirt.  Now check out the suggested fabrics:

Silks?  TAFFETA?! 

Doesn't sound like a housedress to me!  Flowers, Stripes and Dots, they agree.  Drop on by if you're in the neighborhood -- there's a party going on.

Evening Swingers

I really have nothing to add.

Milestones in Junkiedom

Wow!  Somehow in my despair over my ruined dress, I didn't realize that my last post was a bit of a milestone -- yep, post 100!  Thanks, dear readers, for joining me in this journey into pattern madness.  I'm going to attach pom pom trim to my socks and go do some interpretive dance in celebration!

 

(Click on the photo to be taken to the listing over at Ruby Lane for this astounding bit of grooviness.)

Or perhaps I'll just whip up some spats for my go-go boots courtesy Simplicity 9553?

Sadly, groovy 60s dance won't be on my agenda this week -- I'm facing 3 big work deadlines and my posting here will probably range from spotty to nil.  While I put my vintage pattern obsession on hold, here are the links I'll be doing my best to avoid -- if you've got some time to kill, have fun with them!

• Steph at 3 Hours Past the Edge of the World has started a series on how to tackle a big sewing project.  The first article, on conceptualizing and sourcing, is very helpful -- I'm looking forward to what else she has to say!  
• There's a Vintage Pattern Contest going on at Pattern Review.  Get those sewing machines revving -- it ends April 30th!
• Want encouragement or simply company when you wear the lovely garments you've made?  Join Me-Made May at So Zo.
• Free pattern download: the eight-gore Bossa Nova skirt from Hot Patterns at Fabric.com.
• Uh oh...serious time suck alert!  Clothes on Film is, well, a website devoted to discussing clothes on film.  Today's front page features, among other things, an article about a Grace Kelly exhibition at the V&A, an interview with the costume designer for THE HANGOVER, and a discussion of Gordon Gekko's two iconic shirts from WALL STREET.  Digging just a little deeper I found articles on individual pieces of clothing from MAD MEN and Mia Farrow's gorgeous red lounging pajamas from ROSEMARY'S BABY (one of my favorite films).  I die.  GLEE fans, I didn't see an in-depth analysis of Emma Pillsbury, but I'm sure it can't be far off!

Acres of Fabric

You know the saying "you can't see the forest for the trees"?  When it comes to sewing, that doesn't quite describe me.  It'd be more accurate to say I can't see the forest for the lichen on the rocks underneath the trees.

Take my latest project, McCall's 4576.  Does it ring a bell?  It might.  I posted about it back in December, when I was thinking about making it for New Year's Day.  When I say I'm a slow sewster, I mean it. 

About a month ago, after a killer swath of work, I had a free weekend and was ready to sew.  I whipped up a muslin of the other New Year's dress I had been debating and decided that all the stripe-matching and re-fitting required wasn't worth it.  On to view A of this pattern!  I spent probably 30 minutes making sure the grain was lined up (see what I mean about not seeing the forest?) and then cut that puppy out.  (The corollary to my getting absorbed in details?  I then get impatient and get a little sloppy on other things.  The slippery gauze was a bitch to cut, and the pieces were a wee bit uneven.)

But my hope was still high at this point.  I was documenting my steps for you, my dear readers.  I had decided to learn what I could from the seamstress who had used the pattern before me.  I'd noticed she cut out her paper pattern pieces differently than I did.  She left paper overhanging on the "cut on fold" edge and cut her notches in, not out:

 

I followed her lead.  Conclusions?  I HATE cutting notches inward.  Leaving paper overhanging for cutting on the fold?  Very handy!

Anyway, on to sewing!  Damn. I had hoped to whip through this thing.  But with other errands and going to a movie and such the weekend was over.  No problem.  I picked it up the next weekend with plans to stitch it together -- it was an easy pullover, after all -- and, after all the other weekend distractions, managed to get one seam done.  ONE SEAM.

But it was a GORGEOUS seam.  Beautiful.  I'd decided to do a serged French seam a la Sandra Betzina, since the fabric frayed so much.  See, I was going to do this thing RIGHT.  No skipping steps!  I serged the right sides together.  Turned the wrong sides together and pressed that seam carefully.  Usually I just hold the fabric when I do the second part of a French seam, but this time I pinned it.  Did I mention I basted in the seamline as well for accuracy?  AND taped down my serger seam guide so there would be no nasty guide movement?

Wow, what a great seam it was.  A few days later, I did an equally beautiful seam on the center back.  The workmanship!  I had such pride!  Until I realized...

...I had sewn the wrong sides together. 

I didn't cry.  I didn't scream.  I literally bowed to defeat, putting my head down on my sewing table.  And then I left the room.

Days later, I decided I could sew down the exposed seam.  It was enclosed, right?  It would just look like a flat fell seam.  An odd design choice, sure, but why not?  Better than picking apart a serged seam and fray-happy fabric.  It worked!  On to the other side seam.  Another beautiful serged French seam!

And, it turned out, ANOTHER chance to sew the wrong sides together.

By now I hated the dress.  I hated the pattern.  I hated myself.  I folded up the fabric and pattern.  Was about to put the fabric pieces away for that magical someday when I would return to the dress. 

Then I saw the trash can.  The semi-finished dress had found its home.   

Later I read this great Kenneth King quote -- it appeared originally on the Threads blog, but I saw it on Polka Dot Overload:

When learning the craft of sewing...you should expect to destroy several acres of fabric before you get good.

If Kenneth King says it's OK for me to destroy fabric, I don't feel quite as bad for feeling so, well, relieved by throwing that dress in the trash.  The blue gauze is out to the back 40 and now I'm working on this project, Simplicity 5144 :

 

I'm doing View 3, with the rounded hemline and front zipper.  With any luck I'll get it finished before the end of the year!