pattern junkie

A Post Having Nothing To Do With Sewing Patterns

I usually try to keep the blog focused on sewing-related stuff, but today I'm breaking that rule.  If you're hoping for tips on organizing your sewing room or musings on cartoon mini-helpers, read no further.

Anyone left?  OK, here's my news.  I got a tattoo for my birthday yesterday!  I'm thrilled with it and can't stop staring at my left inner forearm:

The flash diluted the color a little bit -- that blue is deeper.  (And if you're wondering -- yes, I am that pale.)  "Omit needless words" is my favorite writing advice, a bit of wisdom from the amazing Strunk & White "Elements of Style".  (I re-read it every year!)  I also like the idea of using it as a reminder to ignore the negative thoughts that pop up way too easily in my noggin.

This is my first tattoo, and I really felt ready to get it.  In the past I've thought about it, but was overwhelmed by the idea of something that would be on me for the rest of my life.  But this felt right, and I loved the idea of declaring my love of my chosen profession on my, ahem, 42nd birthday.  Bring on the wardrobe of elbow-length sleeves!

It looks like I hit 100 followers yesterday as well -- double happy birthday to me!  This calls for a giveaway -- I'll post details on Monday!

Acres of Fabric

You know the saying "you can't see the forest for the trees"?  When it comes to sewing, that doesn't quite describe me.  It'd be more accurate to say I can't see the forest for the lichen on the rocks underneath the trees.

Take my latest project, McCall's 4576.  Does it ring a bell?  It might.  I posted about it back in December, when I was thinking about making it for New Year's Day.  When I say I'm a slow sewster, I mean it. 

About a month ago, after a killer swath of work, I had a free weekend and was ready to sew.  I whipped up a muslin of the other New Year's dress I had been debating and decided that all the stripe-matching and re-fitting required wasn't worth it.  On to view A of this pattern!  I spent probably 30 minutes making sure the grain was lined up (see what I mean about not seeing the forest?) and then cut that puppy out.  (The corollary to my getting absorbed in details?  I then get impatient and get a little sloppy on other things.  The slippery gauze was a bitch to cut, and the pieces were a wee bit uneven.)

But my hope was still high at this point.  I was documenting my steps for you, my dear readers.  I had decided to learn what I could from the seamstress who had used the pattern before me.  I'd noticed she cut out her paper pattern pieces differently than I did.  She left paper overhanging on the "cut on fold" edge and cut her notches in, not out:

 

I followed her lead.  Conclusions?  I HATE cutting notches inward.  Leaving paper overhanging for cutting on the fold?  Very handy!

Anyway, on to sewing!  Damn. I had hoped to whip through this thing.  But with other errands and going to a movie and such the weekend was over.  No problem.  I picked it up the next weekend with plans to stitch it together -- it was an easy pullover, after all -- and, after all the other weekend distractions, managed to get one seam done.  ONE SEAM.

But it was a GORGEOUS seam.  Beautiful.  I'd decided to do a serged French seam a la Sandra Betzina, since the fabric frayed so much.  See, I was going to do this thing RIGHT.  No skipping steps!  I serged the right sides together.  Turned the wrong sides together and pressed that seam carefully.  Usually I just hold the fabric when I do the second part of a French seam, but this time I pinned it.  Did I mention I basted in the seamline as well for accuracy?  AND taped down my serger seam guide so there would be no nasty guide movement?

Wow, what a great seam it was.  A few days later, I did an equally beautiful seam on the center back.  The workmanship!  I had such pride!  Until I realized...

...I had sewn the wrong sides together. 

I didn't cry.  I didn't scream.  I literally bowed to defeat, putting my head down on my sewing table.  And then I left the room.

Days later, I decided I could sew down the exposed seam.  It was enclosed, right?  It would just look like a flat fell seam.  An odd design choice, sure, but why not?  Better than picking apart a serged seam and fray-happy fabric.  It worked!  On to the other side seam.  Another beautiful serged French seam!

And, it turned out, ANOTHER chance to sew the wrong sides together.

By now I hated the dress.  I hated the pattern.  I hated myself.  I folded up the fabric and pattern.  Was about to put the fabric pieces away for that magical someday when I would return to the dress. 

Then I saw the trash can.  The semi-finished dress had found its home.   

Later I read this great Kenneth King quote -- it appeared originally on the Threads blog, but I saw it on Polka Dot Overload:

When learning the craft of sewing...you should expect to destroy several acres of fabric before you get good.

If Kenneth King says it's OK for me to destroy fabric, I don't feel quite as bad for feeling so, well, relieved by throwing that dress in the trash.  The blue gauze is out to the back 40 and now I'm working on this project, Simplicity 5144 :

 

I'm doing View 3, with the rounded hemline and front zipper.  With any luck I'll get it finished before the end of the year!

On Blogging, Brain Saturation and the Bad Lieutenant

I started this blog because I love vintage sewing patterns.  Without a doubt, though, blogging about vintage patterns has caused me to think about them a whole lot more.  I spend more time browsing the Vintage Pattern Wiki looking for things to post, reading other sewing blogs, etc. -- not that I'm complaining.  Let's just say that in the pie chart representing my brain, the slice representing "vintage sewing patterns" has grown much, much bigger. 

The point of this prologue?  Mr. Pattern Junkie and I recently watched Bad Lieutenant: Port of Call New Orleans.  Last night I had a dream in which I was Nicolas Cage's character, and two people were bribing/tempting me by opening up someone else's mail.  (I know!  So BAD!  That should tell you just how daring I am in real life.)

Inside the envelope?  Two vintage dress patterns and some pot.   I really debated what to do.  Stealing's wrong, but...

I took the patterns and left the marijuana for its intended recipient.  No reason to ruin their fun.

Do you think I have a problem?

Treasure Hunting, Part Two

Part two of sharing the results of my recent etsy and eBay spree!  As before, I'll share the seller's names and link to the Vintage Wiki listing, if there is one.

Part of my little shopping fest was inspired by the Mini-Wardrobe Contest over at Pattern Review.  (The aim is to make 4 garments that combine to make at least 4 outfits.)  Even though I'm the slowest seamstress in the world, I came up with the fun idea of making the ultimate swappable wardrobe.  A jumper that could be worn as a dress, detachable collars to change the look, a reversible skirt, etc.  Considering the contest ends on April 16th (and I haven't even cut out anything!) I'll have to give up my dreams of glory -- but it did result in some fun pattern purchases.  Simplicity 1390 was only 99 cents from eBay seller mamajean2010:

All those collars and cuffs!  I love the idea of just slipping them on your dress to give it a new look.  I'd definitely take a pass on the baby hats, though.

I picked up Simplicity 1586 in a lot of 10 blouse patterns (for only $7!) because I was intrigued by the "Change 1," "Change 2," etc on the illustration.  Did this blouse offer change and go capability?  Today a I want the ribbon collar, tomorrow I'll wear it plain?  Sadly, no -- they're just different views -- thought cute ones!  From eBay seller kicker060.

McCall's 5801 was also part of my plan for world domination through ultimate wardrobe swappability.  This cute jacket is reversible!

I bought it from etsy seller elyse72, and while I was there this 1971 wonder jumped into my cart.  How cute is Simplicity 9254?  I love the high neck, the nipped-in waist and, of course, the belt:

Here's the other pattern I bought from Starlet on etsy.  I saw Simplicity 8648 a while ago and was thrilled to finally find it in my size.  I love the collar and the inverted pleat -- it seems like such a comfortable, wearable dress:

Finally...drum roll, please...there's the pattern that could not be resisted.  The pattern that had to be bought simply because it was there.  I present to you Authentic Patterns 252, which came to me via eBay seller purplegardencat.

You read that right!  It's FOR KNITS ONLY!  And what you can't tell from the illustration is that it's actually a BODYSUIT!

Yes, indeed.  This is a pattern for a Western-style bodysuit.  With turtleneck collar or pointed collar or lacing or curlicue details or...isn't each variation just more fantastic than the last?!  Oh, I just have to share the pattern back with you:

How astounding is that?!  I knew it would haunt me if I didn't get it.  I mean, some things you only see once in your lifetime. 

You know what's truly scary?  If I turned my back on all the pretty dress patterns to make this atrocity?  I'd probably end up wearing it to death.

Treasure Hunting, Part One

I did not name this blog "Pattern Junkie" idly.  No, my pattern addiction runs deep and wide.  And while I may go long bouts without indulging, I found myself with some Paypal funds burning a hole in my virtual pocket recently.  Over to eBay I went, and a blur of "Bid Nows" resulted -- I always forget what great deals there are to be found!  Mr. Pattern Junkie is baffled by the giddy squeals that greet each brown envelope, so I'll share my finds with you.  (I'll list each seller.  Some specialize in patterns, others sell an assortment of estate finds.  I'll also link each pattern to its Vintage Wiki listing, if it has one -- those that don't, I'll input soon!)

First, this gaspingly beautiful 1930s dress, overskirt and jacket, Simplicity 2718.  It's so fragile I'm almost afraid to touch it:

The belt on the overskirt is suede, by the way.  And I just love the color combination they used for the envelope.  Gray, black, red and taupe seems so elegant. 

I bought it in a small lot of patterns from eBay seller katchamp.  (Me to Mr. P.J.:  "See, then I sell the ones that aren't my size!"  (While thinking to self: "Please don't look in the 3 boxes of unchecked, unlisted patterns.")  Mr. P.J.: "And then you buy more patterns?"  Me: (as if speaking to small child) "Of course." Mr. P.J.: "But what about all the ones you haven't sewn?  And what about the other night when you got mad at the sewing machine and screamed at it?"  Me: "Isn't it time to watch House?") The lot included Simplicity 1120, which I've deluded myself into thinking I'll grade down one of these days.  What a blouse!

Here's another pretty, Simplicity 8230.  It jumped in my cart when I was getting another long-sought after pattern from etsy seller Starlet.  (I'll show that pattern tomorrow.)  I love how the bodice and skirt echo each other:

I couldn't resist this Vogue Designer, Vogue 1614, either (funnily enough, the back label tells you how to pronounce "Rodriguez").  Very mod!  (Though I do fear that if I wore it Mr. P.J. would interpret the plastron as an arrow and suggest writing "open here" on it.)  From eBay seller dresdenjunkshun.

And I fell in love with Butterick 4577 by Young Designer Jean Muir.  Aren't the lines great?  This was another one that I picked up in a small lot -- the four patterns cost me less than this single pattern would have cost me elsewhere.  I'm a sucker for a good deal!  From eBay seller joekool708.

This Christian Dior pattern, Vogue 2230, is a simple design.  I don't care about designer labels in general, but I guess I'm a sucker for them in pattern form -- especially when they're less than $5!  From eBay seller laneysnewagain.

I tried really hard to resist this Molyneux pattern, Vogue 2692, but ultimately caved.  I mean, a dress with a built-in fanny pack?!  From eBay seller trendybabes.

Tomorrow: you know I can't resist the late 60s and the 70s!  Have I got some wonders to share...

Green Gingham Dreams

I've been tortured by four yards of green gingham recently.

Oh, it's pretty enough fabric.  The green is my favorite shade.  (I say my favorite color is teal, but this Granny Smith green is everywhere in my life: my kitchen cabinets, my car, several vintage dresses...)  And it has the prettiest ribbon stripe running down it.  See?

I bought it on eBay several years ago.  And here in L.A., now that the weather's gotten warmer -- stop laughing, rest of the world, we do have seasons here, they're just subtle -- my head is spinning with dress pattern and fabric combinations.  But green gingham?  What had I been thinking when I clicked "bid"?

I love wearing bright colors in the summer.  But -- I'm 41.  And it wasn't "mutton dressing as lamb" I was worried about as much as "grown woman dressed as a four-year-old."  I'd gotten to the point where I decided I'd have to give the fabric away.  Then I remembered that I had Simplicity 5349 in my pattern collection and thought that View 2 with the white collar might work well:

Still I doubted it.  Could I wear a gingham plaid?  Maybe the time had passed. 

Then I had The Green Gingham Dream. 

In it I saw a friend of mine wearing a green gingham dress.  It was one of those weird dream situations where for some reason I couldn't talk to her directly, but in my dream I exclaimed "Staci has shown me that green gingham CAN work for spring!  I have to tell her!" 

Funnily enough, a few days later I actually identified the dress my friend was wearing in the dream -- it's View 3 from this vintage 60s pattern, Simplicity 8611:

I'm "meh" about the pattern.  Making it in my green gingham stripe seems like it would result in the stuff of nightmares -- but maybe my subconscious knows something I don't!  At any rate, I'm pretty sure there's a pattern out there for me and my green gingham...and isn't the search half the fun?

What patterns and fabrics have appeared in your dreams?  I won't ask "if" -- I'm pretty sure if you're reading this blog, sewing makes a regular appearance in your dream world...

Oh, and my friend?  She's got a fantastic sense of style that's all her own, but I wouldn't say green gingham is a part of it.  I sent her an email declaring her the Green Gingham Oracle, and I think she's still too stunned to respond.

Why Pattern Junkie?

I'll admit it -- I'm obsessed.

No, not with an unrequited love.  Not with sex, drugs or rock and roll.

I'm obsessed with sewing patterns.  Vintage ones hold a special thrill, but I'd never turn down a chance to spend a few hours with a latté and a copy of Patrones magazine.

Aah, Patrones...

Pattern Junkie is my place to share my obsession with other pattern junkies (I know you're out there!)  Amusing pattern illustrations -- interesting ephemera -- elegant designs and "WTF were they thinking?!" designs are all grist for the mill.  Welcome, fellow obsessives, and enjoy!